Pailin Wedel

Stills: Chile

Change has always come slowly to Chiloe Island which did not become part of Chile until eight years after independence was realized. Two small western towns, Cucao and Rahue, and settlements where modern amenities like electricity and running water were relatively recent developments. With the arrival of these amenitites during the past 15 years, Cucao's 300 inhabitants are beginning to see changes in their economy and their relationship with each other.

At 99 years old, Maria Jesus Vera Vera is the oldest woman in the Cucao-Rahue area.  Maria was born in Quellon and moved to Rahue at the age of five. There she  raised her children and her grandchildren.  Now her great-grandchildren are living in Cucao, Rahue's more modern neighboring town.
  
Carmelo Vera Vera, Maria's only living son, retrieves one of his horses for a ride into Cucao. The land behind his house was owned by Maria's husband, Jose Vera Velasquez.  When Jose died, Maria became the owner of Jose's 40 hectares of land.
  
Carmelo enjoys a quiet breakfast while waiting for Maria to awake.  The only child never to marry, Carmelo lives with his mother in a house next door to his sister, Sonia.  Maria says, "The reason why my son Carmelo hasn't gotten married is because he wants to take care of me."
     
  
After a day of fishing on a remote beach, Victor Perez and his son Manuel ride into Rahue.  They do not own a car. Sonia, Maria's daughter, says, "I would never trade a horse for a car."
  
Without electric lights and with only three candles, a battery-powered radio is the family's only form of entertainment.  They have wind-powered electricity.  The lights go out when there is not eough wind.
  
Jose and Ruben, Maria's grandchildren, row out to find wood for their sood stove.  Most timber grow up-river from Maria's house.  They use their wood stove to heat their house because there is not enough electricity to power the heater.
     
  
Jose Ignacio, Maria's great-grandchild, listens to cassettes with his headphones.  He likes playing with the volume control while listening.
  
Sonia Vera Vera washes her mother's hair twice a week.  Sonia takes care of Maria during the day and Carmelo takes care of her during the night.
  
Orlando, Sonia's husband, and Jose Subiabre, Sonia's grand-nephew, fish off the beach in front of their house.  They catch as many as twelve fish a day.  When they catch more fish than the family needs, they sell the fish.